So, you got yourself a bunny? Welcome to Rabbit Care 101!
- Feb 4
- 4 min read
If you're on this page we don't need to convince you that rabbits make wonderful pets (we may be slightly biased), however the first few weeks of bunny ownership can feel very overwhelming when you start learning about all the specific needs your bun has. That's where this guide comes in! In this introductory guide, we’ll briefly cover the foundations of rabbit care including: housing, diet, behaviour, and healthcare to help you get set up with the basics.
Housing:
Despite what you may have seen online, rabbits should not be kept in cages, they need space to move, explore and stretch; a caged rabbit is a sad, unhealthy rabbit. Rabbits generally thrive better indoors, especially in cities like Perth where the weather can reach scorching temperatures in the summer. Inside, temperatures are stable and there are no predators to be concerned about. Some people allow their rabbits to be completely free roam once they are neutered and litter trained, others prefer to provide an exercise pen or large enclosure (these can be found in Bunnings, Kmart etc).
If you decide to choose an enclosure, make sure your rabbit can take at least three hops in any directions, this will give them enough space to explore. Slippery surfaces like tiles and a bunny’s furry paws don’t mix well! Line the area with blankets or fleece so they don’t slide around. As they are prey animals, rabbits naturally like to burrow and hide, providing a safe space for them to retreat into will help them to settle into your home. Avoid placing their enclosure next to anywhere noisy like next to the washing machine or near a speaker.
The essentials for their enclosure include a litter box – rabbits can be litter trained (we’ll do a blog post on that!) but make sure you only use paper or wood-based pellets as the crystal or clumping litter can be dangerous for bunnies. You should also include hay in a hay rack or sack near their litter and water and food bowls – these should be reasonably heavy; bunnies love to flip and tip bowls! You can also add a variety of enrichment toys or bedding to keep them entertained and comfortable - we have lots in stock!
Diet
Hay (80–90%): Unlimited grass hay (timothy, orchard or meadow) should always be available. It keeps your rabbit’s teeth and digestive system healthy – recommended to buy this from pet stores that stock a wide range of options.
Fresh leafy greens: Romaine/cos lettuce, coriander, dill, bok choy, celery leaves and parsley are great choices and readily available. You can “meal prep” a big Tupperware box of salad for your bunny once a week and then grab a handful easily each day.
Pellets: Feed in moderation, look for brands like Oxbow that don’t add sugar or fillers to their pellets.
Fresh water: Always available in a bowl or bottle (many rabbits prefer bowls), if it’s hot, make sure they have multiple sources of water available.
Fruit and veggies: occasional snacks of carrot, capsicum, banana, apple etc
Foods to Avoid
Iceberg lettuce, avocado, onions, bread, cereal, or “human snacks”
A rabbit’s digestive system is extremely delicate, so introduce any new food slowly and watch for changes in appetite or droppings.
Common Rabbit Behaviours:
Binkying: A joyful leap and twist in the air, often followed by zoomies = happiness.
Thumping: A warning sign - your rabbit feels scared or annoyed.
Pushing their head down or into your hand: pat me please!
Flopping: When a rabbit suddenly falls hilariously on their side, they are deeply relaxed. Owners may feel less relaxed upon finding a flopped bun.
Chewing/digging: Normal and necessary, but it means you’ll need to bunny-proof your home (wires, etc).
Chinning: rubbing their chin on something signifies “this is mine”.
Tooth chatters: gentle tooth chattering is a “rabbits purr”.
Licking: rabbit kisses and the ultimate sign of trust.
Periscope up on hind legs: inquisitive and exploring.
Social Needs:
Rabbits are very social animals, if you take home a bonded pair ensure they stay together. If you have a solo bun you must make sure they have enough interaction and enrichment, so they don’t get bored or sad. Bored rabbits can exhibit destructive behaviour. If your rabbit is scared at first, spend time sitting on the floor at their level and let them come to you on their terms. Try feeding them pellets out of your hand and they’ll soon associate you with a delicious treat! Rabbits are crepuscular so sleep a lot during the day and night but tend to be most active at dawn and dusk- expect a 5am “where is breakfast?” wake up alarm if you have a free roaming bunny.
Health and Veterinary Care:
Because rabbits are prey animals, they instinctively hide signs of illness. Regular observation and getting to know what is normal for your bunny is key to preventing small issues escalating.
Find a rabbit-savvy (exotic) veterinarian before an emergency occurs – UTWTR has many Perth-based options regularly listed on our social media sites
Watch for the main warning signs:
Loss of appetite
Smaller or fewer droppings
Lethargy/uninterested behaviour
A bunny not eating can lead to GI stasis which is an emergency - call your vet ASAP.
If your rabbit is not already neutered when you get them, you should aim to book them in as soon as practicable for their procedure- neutering reduces hormonal aggression, improves litter box habits and can help to prevent serious health issues, especially in females.
Finally, vaccinating your rabbit against calicivirus is the best way to protect them from infection (most vets recommend a yearly vaccination).
Stay tuned for upcoming posts where we’ll dive deeper into some of the topic covered here!
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